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Frequently asked questions

Answers to the questions customers ask us most, from choosing and fitting a dimmer to curing flicker. Search, or browse by product or topic.

Showing 42 questions about V-Pro dimmers and modules Show all questions

Choosing a dimmer

Which dimmer suits your lights, how much lighting it can take, and dimming from more than one switch.

Which dimmer do I need for my LED bulbs?

For dimmable LED lighting choose a V-Pro dimmer: our flagship range, designed for modern LED lighting, with push on/off switching and rotary dimming. The V-Pro family also includes:

  • V-Pro Multiway: a dimming knob at 2 or 3 switch positions;
  • V-Pro Smart: control from your phone, Alexa or Google Home;
  • V-Pro Multi-Point: tactile touch at any number of switch positions, with infrared remote control at the master;
  • V-Pro Micro: hidden behind retractive (push) switches.

If your LED lights or driver need leading-edge (triac) control, or you have more than 300W of LED on one dimmer, choose V-Com.

Always choose lamps that are described as dimmable. Not sure? Answer a few questions in our dimmer chooser.

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How many lamps can my dimmer control?

Add up the wattage of all the lamps the dimmer controls: the number of lamps times the watts printed on each. The total must not be more than the maximum load per gang on the dimmer's label and data sheet. For example, 8 LED downlights of 5W each add up to 40W.

DimmerLoad per dimmer (gang)
V-Pro0-120W or 0-300W, no minimum load
V-Pro Multiway, V-Pro Smart120W, no minimum load
V-Pro Multi-Point100W (1 to 10 dimmable LED lamps), no minimum load
V-Pro Micro160W of dimmable LED
V-Com0-100W, 15-180W, 15-220W, 20-400W or 40-600W (the first figure is the minimum)
V-Dim (halogen)Up to 1000W, depending on model; at least 100W recommended: see the V-Dim guide

PowerGrid grid dimmers also have a maximum per plate: single plate (1 to 2 gang) 400W, twin (3 to 4 gang) 800W, double twin (6 to 8 gang) 1200W, triple twin (9 to 12 gang) 1800W, and no more than 800W per row.

With low voltage lighting, add up the VA ratings of the transformers, not the wattage of the bulbs: see transformers and dimmer load. For lamp-by-lamp advice see our compatibility guides.

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Is there a minimum load? Can I dim just one LED lamp?

V-Pro, V-Pro Multiway, V-Pro Smart and V-Pro Multi-Point dimmers have no minimum load, so they can dim a single LED lamp.

Most V-Com and V-Dim dimmers have a minimum: it is the first figure of the rating on the label, for example 20-400W. The 0-100W V-Com has none, and V-Dim dimmers work best with at least 100W. Below the minimum the lights may flicker: see flicker caused by too little load.

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My LED driver says "triac" or "leading edge": which dimmer do I need?
  • Triac or leading edge: choose V-Com, designed for LED lighting that needs leading-edge (triac) control. V-Pro dimmers are not suitable for triac dimmable drivers.
  • Trailing edge: choose a V-Pro dimmer.
  • 1-10V: choose an F-Series 1-10V dimmer.

If you are unsure which control your lamps need, check the lamp or driver manufacturer's data sheet, or ask us for advice: send us a message or email help@varilight.co.uk.

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Is a V-Pro dimmer 1-way or 2-way?

Both. Each V-Pro dimmer has three terminals, C, L1 and L2, and works on 1-way circuits (one switch) and 2-way circuits (two switches, e.g. top and bottom of the stairs). V-Com dimmers are the same.

On a 2-way circuit replace only one of the switches with the dimmer: you dim from that switch, and the other switch turns the lights on and off. See how to wire it. To dim from every switch, see dimming from more than one switch.

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Can I dim the same lights from more than one switch?

Yes. Choose by how you want to dim:

  • A dimming knob at every switch (2 or 3 positions): one V-Pro Multiway dimmer with one or two companion controllers. 2-way and 3-way kits are available (MJKIT2W, MJKIT3W).
  • Phone or voice, plus knobs at up to 3 positions: one V-Pro Smart dimmer with one or two V-Pro Multiway companion controllers.
  • Touch at any number of positions: one V-Pro Multi-Point master dimmer with as many supplementary controllers as you need, up to 50m of cable. Infrared remote control works at the master only.
  • Push (retractive) switches at any number of positions: a V-Pro Micro in-line dimmer pack.

Ordinary switches can't be used as the other positions with these systems: V-Pro Multiway and V-Pro Smart need companion controllers, and V-Pro Multi-Point needs Multi-Point supplementary controllers. If dimming from one switch is enough, a V-Pro dimmer works with an ordinary 2-way switch.

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Can I mix lighting types on the same dimmer?

VARILIGHT dimmers are not designed to handle mixed lighting types on a single circuit. This includes combining halogen and LED lamps. With halogen lamps being phased out, most installations now use only dimmable LEDs, which ensures optimal performance and reduces the risk of overload.

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Will my LED lamps work with your dimmers?

Our dimmers are designed for wide compatibility and are tested with many lamp types, including Megaman and Philips, which have performed well in testing. However, due to constant changes in LED technology and driver designs, we cannot guarantee compatibility with all lamps.

Before purchasing, please check our compatibility guide and the dimmer selection guide to make sure the lighting load you have is compatible with the dimmer you have chosen.

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How do I work out the dimmer load when there are transformers in the circuit?

Add up the VA ratings of the transformers, not the wattage of the bulbs. Choose transformers with a rating close to their lamp load, e.g. a 50VA, 60VA or 70VA transformer for a 50W low voltage bulb.

  • VARILIGHT transformers: any number, as long as you keep within the maximum rating of the dimmer. For YT40DC12 and YT40DC24 LED drivers, never more than 250W per dimmer circuit.
  • Other brands: use only fully dimmable electronic transformers, and no more than 5 per dimmer circuit.
  • V-Plus dimmers (recommended for halogen on VARILIGHT transformers): load to 75% of the dimmer's maximum.
  • Transformer specifies triac dimming: use a V-Com dimmer.

Wire-wound or toroidal transformers are not suitable for V-Pro, V-Pro Multiway, V-Pro Multi-Point, V-Pro Smart or V-Dim dimmers. If your transformer does not say that it is dimmable it is unlikely to work with any dimmer.

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Can I replace just the dimmer module in my existing plate?

Yes. Our replacement dimmer modules fit into most existing VARILIGHT dimmer plates. Remove the knob (and the front plate, on a Screwless product), unscrew the nut, take the old module out from the back and fit the new one.

RangeReplacement modules
V-Pro (LED)MJP120 0-120W, MJP300 0-300W
V-Com (LED, triac)MKP100 0-100W, MKP180 15-180W, MKP400 20-400W
V-Pro MultiwayMJM100 dimmer, MJS companion controller
V-Dim (halogen)MTP402 60-400W
On/off onlyMH0 2-way, MPINT intermediate

Modules come in different sizes, so check which sizes your faceplate takes: see replacement modules and the Matrix page. Module instructions (PDFs): MJP120, MJP300, MKP100.

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What is the Matrix system?

Matrix lets you build the dimmer you need. A Matrix dimmer pack (faceplate kit) includes a faceplate, knob(s), the clear plastic nut(s) and a nut spinner: add the dimmer modules you want, for example a V-Pro and a V-Com module on the same plate. Many dimmers that aren't made ready-built in a finish can be made this way.

Use the configurator on the Matrix page to choose a faceplate and modules, or type a dimmer's product code into the search box: its data sheet lists the Matrix parts you need. The Matrix kit instructions (PDF) give the maximum total wattage for each plate.

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Setting up and programming

Dimming modes, minimum and maximum brightness, resets, and pairing supplementary controllers, remotes and the app.

V-Pro and V-Com rotary dimmers

How do I change the dimming mode on a V-Pro or V-Com dimmer?

V-Pro dimmers have three modes: Mode 1 trailing edge (the default, best for most LEDs), Mode 2 simulated leading edge, not triac (certain LEDs) and Mode 3 alternative trailing edge (some LEDs). On V-Com dimmers Mode 1 is recommended; if you notice any flashing, try Mode 2 or, in some cases, Mode 3.

  1. Set the knob to maximum (MKP100 module: a high brightness level). Switch the lights off and on once per second, 3 times (6 presses of the knob in all), to enter configuration mode.
  2. For Mode 2: turn the knob fully anticlockwise and wait 2 seconds.
    For Mode 3: turn it fully anticlockwise, then fully clockwise, and wait 2 seconds.
  3. The lights flash to confirm: once for Mode 1, twice for Mode 2, three times for Mode 3.

To go back to Mode 1, reset the dimmer to factory settings. If Mode 2 draws too much current, the dimmer goes back to Mode 1 by itself.

These steps are for current dimmers. Older dimmers may be programmed differently: check the software version on the side of the module and use the matching leaflet from the instruction leaflets or earlier leaflets page. There is a programming video on VARILIGHT TV, and the steps for every range are in set up your dimmer.

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How do I set the minimum brightness on a V-Pro or V-Com dimmer?

If your lights flicker at low brightness, raise the minimum. If they are too bright at the lowest setting, lower it.

  1. Turn the dimmer to a low brightness level (MJP120 and MJP300 modules: fully anticlockwise).
  2. Switch the lights off and on once per second, 3 times.
  3. The lights "step" up and down to confirm you are in configuration mode.
  4. Turn the knob fully clockwise to begin the adjustment.
  5. Slowly turn the knob down and up until you find your preferred minimum brightness.
  6. Leave the knob in this position: after 5 seconds the setting saves automatically.

Make sure all the lamps stay visibly on at the lowest setting (UK EcoDesign Regulation 1194/2012). Can't get into configuration mode? Child lock may be on. Other ranges: set up your dimmer.

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How do I set the maximum brightness on a V-Pro or V-Com dimmer?

If the lights flicker at high brightness, lower the maximum. If they aren't bright enough, you can raise it.

  1. Set the dimmer to maximum (fully clockwise).
  2. Switch the lights on and off once per second.
  3. Set the knob to minimum, then switch on and off again.
  4. Return the knob to maximum and switch the lights on.
  5. In configuration mode, turn the knob fully anticlockwise to begin the adjustment.
  6. Slowly turn the knob until you find your preferred maximum brightness.
  7. Leave it for 5 seconds to save.

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What is child lock, and how do I turn it on or off?

Child lock stops the dimmer going into programming mode by accident. If you can't get the dimmer to program, turn child lock off first. On V-Pro and V-Com dimmers:

  1. Set the knob to maximum and switch on and off twice.
  2. Set the knob to minimum and switch on and off twice.
  3. Set the knob to maximum and switch on, off, on.
  4. The lights step to confirm the lock is on.

Repeat the same steps to turn it off. V-Pro Multiway: see Multiway programming. Watch the child lock video on VARILIGHT TV.

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I've changed the bulbs on my dimmer: do I need to do anything?

Yes. Always turn off the mains power before replacing bulbs controlled by a dimmer. If you have changed the type of bulb, reset the dimmer to its factory settings: V-Pro and V-Com, V-Pro Multiway, V-Pro Multi-Point, V-Pro Smart, or any range in set up your dimmer.

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How do I reset a V-Pro or V-Com dimmer to factory settings?

A reset restores Mode 1 and the original brightness settings.

  1. Set the knob to maximum and switch off and on 3 times, about once per second.
  2. Wait at least 3 seconds, then switch off and on 3 times again.
  3. The lights fade off: the reset is complete.

If the dimmer won't respond, child lock may be on. Resetting another range: set up your dimmer.

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Some LEDs won't come on at low brightness: what is Drive (Boost)?

Drive gives LEDs that won't switch on at low brightness a short boost at start-up. On V-Pro and V-Com dimmers:

  1. Set the knob to minimum.
  2. Switch the lights on and off once per second.
  3. Set the knob to maximum, and switch on and off again.
  4. Set the knob to minimum and switch the lights on.
  5. In configuration mode, turn the knob up until the lamps switch on.
  6. Leave it for 5 seconds to save.

To turn Drive off, repeat the steps but skip step 5. The same feature is called Boost on V-Pro Multiway, in the V-Pro Smart app and on the V-Pro Micro, where it is set from the switch: see set up your dimmer.

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Fitting and wiring

Wiring 2-way and multi-way circuits, wall box depths and where to find the instructions. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

Dimmers

How do I wire a V-Pro dimmer on a 2-way circuit?

Switch off at the mains first. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

  1. Replace only one of the two switches with the dimmer (fitting two dimmers causes flicker). Note the position of each wire on the old switch, and keep any wires that were grouped together in one terminal together.
  2. The wire(s) from the common terminal of the old switch go into C.
  3. The other two wires go into L1 and L2, either way round.
  4. For metal faceplates, connect the earth wire to the marked earthing terminal.
  5. Fit the dimmer into the wall box without overtightening, check no wires are trapped behind it, restore the power and test.

1-way circuit (one switch): one wire into C, the other into L1 (either way round); L2 is not used.

More than one dimmer on the plate: treat each set of three terminals as a separate dimmer. If the old switch had terminals linked between gangs, link the same terminals on the dimmer with a short wire.

Diagrams are in the V-Pro instructions (PDF), and there is a V-Pro video on VARILIGHT TV. V-Com dimmers are wired the same way: see the V-Com instructions (PDF).

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I have three or more switches (intermediate): can I fit a dimmer?
  • Dim from one switch: a push on/off V-Pro or V-Com dimmer replaces one of the switches and the others stay as they are: see the 3-way (intermediate) switch and dimmer diagram on our wiring diagrams page. For a matching look, use MPINT intermediate and MH0 2-way push on/off modules (dummy dimmers) at the other switches.
  • Dim from all three: V-Pro Multiway or V-Pro Smart with two companion controllers.
  • Dim from more than three: V-Pro Multi-Point (any number of supplementary controllers) or V-Pro Micro (any number of retractive switches).

See dimming from more than one switch.

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Do I need a neutral wire?
  • V-Pro Smart and V-Pro Multiway dimmers: no. They install in place of a standard switch, and neutral must never be connected to the dimmer itself.
  • V-Pro and V-Com rotary dimmers: no. They connect to the switch wires only (terminals C, L1 and L2).
  • V-Pro Multiway companion controllers: they can be wired with or without a neutral (see the companion controller instructions, PDF).
  • V-Pro Micro: no neutral is needed at the switch. Follow the leaflet: it warns not to connect the neutral to the main dimmer unit.

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What depth of back box do I need?
Minimum depthClassicUltraflatScrewless
Dimmers25mm35mm35mm
Rocker and toggle switches16mm25mm25mm
13A and 5A sockets, fused spurs25mm35mm35mm

PowerGrid: 35mm for dimmers, 25mm for rockers and fuses. V-Pro Multi-Point grid dimmers depend on the faceplate: 25mm with a Classic faceplate, 35mm with a Screwless faceplate. Cooker panels and shaver sockets need deeper boxes: see wall box depths for every range. The depth for a particular product is also on its data sheet: type the product code into the search box.

Single dimmer plates fit wall boxes with 60.3mm fixing centres, double plates 120.6mm. A box with four fixing lugs needs the top and bottom lugs broken off or bent flat. 3 and 4-gang dimmers come on a wider twin plate, so check your wall box.

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Where can I find the instructions or a wiring diagram for my product?

The instruction leaflet, with its wiring diagrams, comes with your product. You can also find every current leaflet on the instruction leaflets page, and leaflets for older and discontinued products on the earlier leaflets page. Where relevant, check the software version and choose the correct leaflet: the software version is on the side of the dimmer module.

We also have a page of wiring diagrams and how-to videos. Every data sheet links to the product's leaflet: type the product code into the search box. If the wiring diagram is not enough, please contact a qualified electrician.

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What do I need to remove before an insulation test?

Dimmers from all of our ranges should be disconnected for the duration of the insulation resistance test. Failing to do so could damage the dimmer and make the product guarantee invalid.

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Switches, sockets and grid products

Can I fit a VARILIGHT grid dimmer into another brand's grid plate?

Yes. Our MultiGrid dimmer modules come in white or black with 8 different fascias, for MK, Schneider Ultimate, Schneider Lisse, Crabtree, Hager, Deta, BG and VARILIGHT PowerGrid grid systems. We also offer grid dimmer adaptor packs for each of these makes: they convert any PowerGrid dimmer module for use with that brand's grid.

Product codes for VARILIGHT grid dimmers always begin with a G (e.g. GJP100W for the V-Pro grid dimmer in white). See grid dimmers for the adaptor pack codes.

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Parts, finishes and care

Knobs and spare parts, product codes and data sheets, finishes, cleaning and decorating.

Where can I get a replacement dimmer knob?

All our knobs have the same fixing, so they fit every VARILIGHT dimmer. Screwless products need a "pipped" knob, which is slightly raised for spacing. Pipped knobs aren't sold separately: for a replacement, please send us a message or email help@varilight.co.uk and our customer services team will help.

Spare knobs are sold singly or in packs of 10 (the same code with 10 on the end). Click a code for its data sheet, which shows where to buy it:

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How should I protect my switches and sockets when decorating?

Do not use masking tape on any decorative products. The adhesive may chemically bond with the surface finish.

For Screwless products we recommend removing the faceplate and taking care not to paint over the plastic clips, as this may prevent the faceplate from clipping back on.

For products with visible fixing screws we recommend turning off the mains power, removing the fixing screws and pulling the product gently away from the wall, taking care that the wires remain fully fixed into their terminals.

When the product is clear of the wall, cover it with a plastic bag and use an elastic band to secure it behind the product. You can then paint or wallpaper the wall.

Please note that it can take several weeks for the chemicals in paint or wallpaper paste to become inert. Before this time there is a danger that they will react with the product if it has a metal faceplate. For this reason we recommend using a plastic bag as a temporary gasket between the product and the wall once it is dry to the touch. In other words, use the plastic to form a barrier between the product and the surface of the wall.

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A knob, screw or other part is missing or broken

Please send us a message or email help@varilight.co.uk, telling us the product code and what is missing or broken, and we will sort it out.

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My switch or socket has begun to tarnish

Cu29 raw copper is designed to tarnish: a natural patina develops without regular cleaning. To brighten it, wipe lightly with a little citric acid on a polishing cloth, and never coat it.

On other finishes, tarnishing is usually caused by damp. The source of the damp may be a damp wall. In this case you can prevent further tarnishing by placing a plastic barrier between the product and the wall (for example a piece cut from a clear plastic bag).

If the surface of the product has been damaged, for example during cleaning, then damp may have permeated and caused tarnishing of the faceplate. Unfortunately in this case the product is permanently damaged.

If you have recently decorated, please note that it can take several weeks for the chemicals in paint or wallpaper paste to become inert. Before this time there is a danger that they will react with the product if it has a metal faceplate. For this reason we recommend using a plastic bag as a temporary gasket between the product and the wall once it is dry to the touch.

If your products are permanently damaged it may be that you can claim on your house insurance for replacement products.

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Guarantee and older products

The lifetime guarantee, how to claim, and help for products we no longer make.

How do I make a guarantee claim or return a faulty product?

Many problems can be solved without a replacement, so please check the troubleshooting answers first. Then:

  1. Submit a guarantee claim, or email our support team at help@varilight.co.uk, with your purchase details and a description of the problem. We'll review it and respond within one working day.
  2. Tell us the product code, the batch number (on the plastic moulding at the back of a dimmer), the type and wattage of the lamps it controls, and the fault. Keep your proof of purchase.
  3. The faulty product must be returned to us. We'll email you a reference number, and you can return the product free of charge through the Royal Mail returns portal, using our returns reference (KILNWOOD) and your reference number.

If the claim is approved, we'll arrange a repair or replacement at no cost to you. See our lifetime guarantee.

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Where do I find the batch number or software version?

The batch number is printed on the plastic moulding at the back of the dimmer module: on the side or the bottom, depending on the model. The leaflet has a space to record it, and it helps us give you the right technical support. Where it applies, the software version is on the side of the dimmer module: use it to choose the right instruction leaflet.

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One dimmer on my multi-gang plate is faulty: can I keep using the others?

Yes. It is perfectly in order to remove a faulty dimmer module from a multi-gang dimmer by pulling off the knob and unscrewing the nut under the knob (and removing the front plate first, on a Screwless product). You will then still have the remaining modules working while we service the faulty one. See how to make a claim.

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Troubleshooting

Dimmers that have stopped working, flicker, buzz or glow, and other problems with installed products.

Not working, or switching off

My dimmer has stopped working: what should I do?

Many faults can be cleared without replacing anything. Switch off at the mains before touching any wiring and, if in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

  1. Reset the power. Switch the lighting circuit off at the circuit breaker, then back on after a few seconds. An overloaded dimmer switches itself off to protect itself, and touch and remote dimmers can often be reset this way.
  2. Check the load. Add up the wattage of all the lamps on the dimmer (for low voltage lighting, the VA ratings of the transformers). It must not be more than the maximum per gang on the dimmer's label. See how many lamps a dimmer can take.
  3. Changed the bulbs? If you have changed the type of lamp, reset the dimmer to its factory settings: V-Pro and V-Com, V-Pro Multiway, V-Pro Multi-Point, V-Pro Smart, or V-Pro Micro in set up your dimmer.
  4. New installation? Check the wiring against the diagram in the instruction leaflet. A touch or remote dimmer must have a true live connected to its "Live" terminal: it must not be switching neutral.
  5. Lights come on but won't dim? See my dimmer won't dim the lights.

If it still doesn't work, the dimmer may be faulty. It is covered by our lifetime guarantee: see how to make a claim. It helps to have the product code, the batch number (printed on the plastic moulding at the back of the dimmer) and the type and wattage of your lamps to hand.

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My dimmer turns the lights on and off but won't dim them

V-Pro and V-Com dimmers: we would advise you to perform the factory reset on the dimmer switch. Instructions are also in the product instruction leaflet and on VARILIGHT TV. If you have performed the factory reset and the lights are still not dimming, please contact Customer Services: send us a message or email help@varilight.co.uk.

Other dimmers: this problem is usually caused when one of the components in the dimmer has failed, usually due to a plasma. Plasmas can be caused when a mains halogen light bulb (e.g. GU10) fails. For this reason we recommend only using good quality mains halogen bulbs from well-known brands. If a dimmer shows this fault it will need to be replaced.

The best type of dimmer to use with mains halogen bulbs is a VARILIGHT V-Plus series dimmer. The rapid on-board overload protection can usually turn the dimmer off so quickly that it survives a spike in the mains supply.

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My lights are switching to a reduced brightness

The usual reason is that the dimmer is overloaded. A V-Plus dimmer turns the brightness down, or off, until the overload is removed and it is switched off and on again. V-Pro, V-Com, V-Pro Multi-Point and V-Dim safety dimmers switch off instead until the overload is removed.

Check the maximum load on the label on the back of the dimmer. Add up the wattage of the lamps it controls; with low voltage lighting, add up the VA ratings of the transformers, not the bulbs. If the total is more than the maximum, use fewer or lower-wattage lamps, or a higher-rated dimmer: see how many lamps a dimmer can take.

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Flickering, buzzing and glowing

My LED lights flicker: how do I stop it?

Most flicker can be cured with the dimmer's own settings. On V-Pro and V-Com dimmers:

  • Flicker at low brightness: raise the minimum brightness.
  • Flicker at high brightness: lower the maximum brightness.
  • Flashing at any level: change the dimming mode. Mode 1 suits most LEDs; some perform better in Mode 2 or, in some cases, Mode 3.

Also check that:

  • the lamps are described as dimmable, and are all of the same type: our dimmers are not designed for mixed lighting types on one circuit;
  • on a 2-way circuit, only one of the switches has been replaced with a dimmer, to avoid flicker;
  • if your dimmer has a minimum load (the first figure of the rating on most V-Com and V-Dim dimmers), the lamps add up to more than it: see flicker caused by too little load.

V-Pro Multi-Point, V-Pro Multiway and V-Pro Smart dimmers have the same kind of settings: see setting up and programming.

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My lights won't dim low enough, or go off at the lowest setting
  • Too bright at the lowest setting: reduce the dimmer's minimum brightness.
  • Off or flickering at the lowest setting: raise the minimum brightness. If some LEDs won't switch on at low brightness, turn on Drive (Boost), which gives them a short boost at start-up.

When the dimmer is installed, all the lamps must stay visibly on at the lowest brightness setting (UK EcoDesign Regulation 1194/2012). How low a lamp will dim varies according to the brand and type of LED: see our compatibility guide.

The same settings on other dimmers: V-Pro Multiway, V-Pro Multi-Point, V-Pro Smart (in the app). V-Pro Micro is set from the switch: see set up your dimmer.

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My dimmer or my lamps are buzzing

It is quite normal for a dimmer switch to buzz a little. A dimmer is more prone to buzz with certain types of lighting load. If your lighting load is causing your dimmer to buzz excessively, we recommend changing the dimmer for a trailing-edge dimmer. Our V-Pro series trailing-edge dimmers are the quietest running dimmers available.

If the LED lamps themselves buzz while a V-Pro dimmer is on, a component within the lamps is vibrating during operation. Changing the driving mode on the dimmer may improve this. If the lamps continue to buzz after trying the different driving modes, we recommend contacting the LED manufacturer for further advice.

With other brands of dimmable electronic transformer, noise levels may vary depending on the type and quantity of transformers used.

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My lights flash 2 or 3 times before staying on

This happens when the dimmer detects too much current draw from the lamps on start-up, so it charges the lamps in steps in order to protect itself. Changing the driving mode on the dimmer may improve this behaviour. Instructions are also in the product instruction leaflet and on VARILIGHT TV.

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My LED lamps start slowly or take time to reach full brightness

The V-Pro soft-start function gradually increases power over approximately 1 second to protect against inrush current and improve lamp life. LED drivers vary widely in design, so some may start differently or take longer to reach full brightness.

Changing the driving mode on the dimmer may improve this behaviour, although results cannot be guaranteed due to lamp variability.

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My LED lamps don't switch off when the dimmer enters programming mode

When the dimmer enters programming mode there is a small amount of current that passes through the module to allow the dimmer to be reconfigured. Some LED lamps are extremely sensitive and will glow even though the dimmer is effectively off. You should still be able to complete the programming procedure. If you are not certain, change one of the LED lamps for an ordinary halogen or filament lamp just for the duration of the programming, as this should stop the LED lamps glowing when they should be off.

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Is it normal for my dimmer to feel warm?

Yes. It is normal for dimmer switches to feel slightly warm during operation, particularly when they are controlling loads close to their maximum rated capacity. During dimming a small amount of heat is generated, and it is intentionally transferred to the front plate through the dimmer module's heat sink. This helps dissipate heat efficiently and protects the internal electronic components.

Touch and remote dimmers also draw a very small standby current when switched off, so they may feel slightly warm even when off. They have over-temperature protection, and the fire retardant material around the electronics at the back may show some discolouration from moderate temperatures, which is expected in normal operation.

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Still stuck?

Our customer services team will help. To get the quickest answer, tell us the product code, the batch number from the back of the dimmer, and the make, wattage and number of lamps.